Saturday, 14 January 2012

Chapter 2: On the Verandah, Part 1


THE GREAT TAMASHA COOKBOOK AND FAMILY
HISTORY
2
On The Verandah
Part 1

Poorees of White Flour (A Breakfast Dish)
From the unfinished MS., circa 1899: Our India Days,
As Told to a Dear Great-Niece by Three Ladies of the British Raj in the Year 186—,
With the Conversations which Took Place Represented to the Best of the Transcriber’s Recollection
Preface: Why This Little Book
    It is more than thirty years since the idea of writing a little book of reminiscences of Anglo-India in the first part of the present century had its birth. We were at Tamasha that summer and the three great-aunts were still with us, and all at that time blessedly well. And since several of their grandchildren had also come to stay and the weather was proving uncertain, it seemed the ideal time to urge them to tell us the stories, many of which we had heard before, but in which we still delighted, of their early life in India, for they were “country born”, as the old India hands say these days, and grew up there with no suggestion of being sent Home to school, as both boys and girls are in these modern times.
    We love to think of this particular summer, for Madeleine Thomas, as she then was, was with us. The thought of her always brings help and inspiration.
    Before we knew it we were planning the book. It was to be a collaborative affair, and since the great-aunts’ old Indian “receets” were a great part of the charm of the stories, we determined that their Hindustanee dishes should be written down, too. Our enthusiasm grew. For days on end we talked of nothing else. We wrote draft after draft, we invaded the kitchen, alas, to try the recipes, driving poor Cook to desperation, we re-drafted, and again we wrote. It seemed the summer would see our little work complete. But alas! other things soon thrust themselves upon us, and our unfinished little book was pigeon-holed for years and years.
    And it is not now what it would have been if finished then.
    The original narrative, as we transcribed it that halcyon summer, did not include the conversations which took place, but many years after when the manuscript was disinterred wiser counsel prevailed, and I have endeavoured to “set the stories in their context” and give the reader, to the best of my recollection, the flavour of the times in which they were told.
    As to the recipes— After some discussion with kind friends and family I have decided to leave them in. They give a little of the true flavour of old India, before the days of the railway, when the old, old Grand Trunk Road, scarcely yet improved by our English endeavours as it is in these later days, was the only alternative to taking ship if one wished to reach Delhi from Calcutta.
"Our Troops on the Old Grand Trunk Road"
Photograph, circa 1880. Courtesy of Miss Thomas
     And it is the flavour in more ways than the merely literal! Here is a story which the great-aunts used to tell, having had it off one of their dear ayahs, which illustrates my point:
    A lady in India once had an ayah, who from morning till night sang the same sad song to the baby. It was a plaintive chant: “Ky a ke waste, Ky a ke waste, pet ke waste, pet ke waste." 
    The lady’s curiosity was aroused. The words were simple enough, but they had no sense: “For why? For why? For why? For stomach! For stomach!”
    She called the ayah to her and sought the interpretation of these words.
    “This is the meaning, oh memsahiba,” said the ayah: “Why do we live? What is the meaning of our existence? To fill our stomachs, to fill our stomachs.”
    The great-aunts would add: “You may smile at this and feel sorry for the poor benighted Hindoo, who has such a low idea of the meaning of life, but must we not all eat? Is not the necessity for food common to all mankind?” And if the children were not present they might add the unchristianly aside: “What more is the meaning of life? You see in this little tale the two strands, the philosophical and the bodily, inextricably interwoven, and that, certainly according to the Indian way of thinking, is indeed the meaning of life.”
    —A.J.T., The Vicarage, Little Shrempton, 189-

Our India Days, Chapter 1: The Early Stories of Ponsonby Sahib
    Since Antoinette and Matt are so interested, we have agreed to tell you our story, and Antoinette may write it down. And yes, Tessa and little Gil may hear it, too! Of course, dear children, we all recall slightly different episodes—Great-Aunt Tiddy is a deal younger than Great-Aunts Tess and Tonie, though it may not seem so to you! And then, Antoinette’s Grandmamma, your dearest Great-Aunt Josie, is gone, now, alas—who would have thought our pretty, gay, heedless Josie would have been the first to go? But yes, dear ones, since you wish for it, this is the story of our India days.
    In these modern days, or so the young people certainly claim, everything is changed and we are all so much more aware of the risks that attach to the Anglo-Indian life and the unwisdom of trusting any native—why, they cry, we have had the Indian Mutiny! And the heyday of the East India Company is over—and just as well! For you older persons did not make a very good fist of ruling India at all: these days the Indian Civil Service has the task firmly in hand, and with the better sort of Indian being taught English so that they may make efficient clerks, everything is so much more regular and businesslike. Imagine doing business in the Indian languages as in Grandpapa’s and Great-Grandpapa’s day! Absurd! No wonder the natives came to consider themselves as good as the English! But that cannot happen again. There is nothing like the Empire, after all!
    None of us three Lucas girls would claim we know anything about the political side of the thing, and certainly the Mutiny was a most dreadful and shocking occurrence. But it did not seem to us, while we were living it, that the life was such a bad one, fifty years ago and more, even if we did not have all the Indian clerks writing English and—well, whatever our dearest grandchildren claim. Protective clothing more suited to the climate: pith helmets and—spine pads, was it, dearest ones? Whatever you say. Yes, much more suitable; and of course the shipping is so much more efficient these days, no-one would wish to argue with that. Your Great-Grandpapa’s tea must have had to be sent home on the tea clippers? Well, no, dear children, although now of course our fine Indian tea is a—a commonplace, and one cannot imagine English life without it, back when your Great-Grandpapa took over the firm the English were not yet growing tea in India. That did not come along until much later. But yes, for some years the tea has come by tea clipper. Though, really, the big sailing ships that fetched the tea and silks from China were not so very much different. Not as fast—no.
    You wish to know what we did before our Papa started growing the tea? Dear ones, the tea did not really loom so large in our lives as you seem to assume—though of course your Great-Aunt Tonie lived for many years on one of Papa’s tea plantations. But that was much later. Before that, when we were children? But there are so many little details—and yet, it all tends to run together into a golden memory of the halcyon days of childhood that can never come again. But you cannot grasp that, as yet! Cherish these days, they are precious ones.
    Matt thinks we might start with one person who stands out in the memory? Perhaps not Ranjit Singh, dear boy, though he was striking, yes. He was our Papa’s burra khitmagar—that is, major-domo, and such a fixture in the house in Calcutta that, again, one scarce knows where to start.
“The Burra Khitmagar”
Circa 1855. artist unknown.
Courtesy of the Maunsleigh Collection

    Dear old Ranjit Singh! He was a Sikh, of course, and must have been over six feet tall—nearer to seven, in his great turban. Such an impressive figure in his white suit of clothes—no, Indian clothes, dear ones, our Papa would never have dreamed of requiring his servants to wear feringhee dress.—Tonie is quite correct in saying that that means “foreign” and you had best write “English”, Antoinette!—What a tremendous treat it was for us little ones, to be given a ride round the house on Ranjit Singh’s shoulders, high above the world, almost like riding on an elephant!
    Of course we have ridden on an elephant, dear ones! Many, many times—but perhaps that should be for later in the story?
    Perhaps it would be best, after all, to start with Ponsonby sahib—for who, after our dearest Papa and Mamma, was to become more significant in our lives than he? Yes, we did call him that in those days, children—though as you will see, that was not all he was called!
    Our earliest memories of Ponsonby sahib date back to around the year 1815, though some of us are old enough to remember meeting him before that, if we put our minds to it. Mind, our dear Josie would maintain she had never laid eyes on him back then! Perhaps Papa’s older children might recall him from earlier days, but in truth we four scarce knew them: they were grown, launched and married to respectable husbands before Tess, Tonie, Josie and little iddy-bitty Tiddy were out of the schoolroom or, in the case of some, the nursery. But for us younger ones the unannounced arrivals and departures of Ponsonby sahib punctuate, more or less, the memories of our India days in the big white house in Calcutta. We, of course, as children do, took these arrivals and departures for granted, along with the houseful of devoted nurses and bearers who all spoilt us dreadfully, the garden crammed with the flowers that naughty little Josie and Tiddy did not hesitate to despoil, never realising they were the result of hours of tending and watering by faithful mali and his helpers, the illicit visits to the bazaar and the temples with the ayahs, and, contrariwise, the approved Sunday church-going in our best frilled muslins. Yes, and bonnets, of course: Miss Tess and Miss Tonie becomingly decked in real straw with ribbons and silk flowers, while starched white cotton marked the lowly nursery status of Josie baba and Tiddy baba! Not so very different from our little Tessa today, no! Though garments were lighter in those days: you would consider our little muslins very flimsy and inadequate!

                                                    The First Story of Ponsonby Sahib 
   
“Ponsonby Sahib as a Young Man, in Uniform”
Miniature, circa 1810.
Courtesy of the Maunsleigh Collection

    It was, then, a day in 1815 when the thin man on the bony horse rode slowly up to the gates of the Lucas mansion under a clear blue sky. The day was not hot, by Indian standards; nevertheless the streets of Calcutta were almost deserted, and the gatekeeper was observedly asleep in the little thatched shelter which Mr Lucas had caused to be erected by his palatial wrought-iron gates and which the third Mrs Lucas had caused to be painted white to match the mansion. The thin man smiled, just a little. Undoubtedly the thick lawns had been heavily watered that very morning, as every morning, except when the monsoons came; but although the grass was lush and green, it was observedly dry as a bone. A butterfly’s wings flashed for a moment over the amber flowers of a giant ginger plant; then all was still. The hum of the crowded city made the slightest of background noises; the Lucas grounds were silent apart from a faint buzzing of insects.
    The man on the bony horse did not disturb the dozing gatekeeper: instead, as was his habit, he inserted his riding crop through the wrought iron and under the latch of the tall double gates. The gates opened; he pushed them apart just enough to admit himself and his horse, and closed them again. Then he rode slowly up the weedless gravelled drive.
    The front of the mansion, with its heavy pillared porte cochère symmetrically flanked by giant rows of white columns above an intricate tessellated marble flooring, presented an almost respectable appearance, except that the punkah-wallah seated in the lee of one of the huge white pillars had fallen asleep on his little string cot. Again the thin man smiled, just a little. He did not disturb the man, nor knock at the immense carved wooden door, though he did glance at this door with considerable amusement: it would not have been out of place guarding an inner chamber in a maharajah’s palace. Instead, he dismounted, and led the horse slowly off to the right, where the wide gravelled drive disappeared round the corner of the house amongst a profusion of flowering bushes and broad-leaved palms.
    Once past this corner, the house, which appeared so symmetrical from the front, revealed itself to be an oblong block backed by an intricate tangle of wings, attachments and lean-tos. The thin man, who was used to it, walked slowly down the path and ducked under a trellised archway hung with a heavy swag of crimson flowering vine. Then, still leading the horse, he entered what might have been said to have been some sort of courtyard. To his left, the heavy Classical bulk of the mansion loomed. To the right, below a high stone wall a long, narrow pool, something in the Moorish style, was featured, with a small fountain tinkling at its centre, and tubs of more flowering vines, bright-blossomed shrubs and shiny-leafed citrus bushes ringing it; and directly before him was a long shaded verandah, very much in the Indian fashion, running the entire length of a long back wing. The gravel path was continued; he led the horse slowly along it.
    The verandah was composed of two levels: above, a darkly latticed balcony sheltered what perhaps had been the women’s quarters of the original house, before its new European owner added the imposing frontage some time towards the end of the previous century. Below, white columns echoed the Moorish tone of the enclosed garden.
“The Lucas Children with Servants on the Verandah at Ma Maison, 1814, by G.P.”
Watercolour, 1814. (Title from annotation on reverse: G.P. is possibly Gilbert Ponsonby).
From the Widdop family papers 

    Between these columns were slung the heavy wooden blinds, each slat composed of a long, thin branch, that were endemic to the country. Since today was not so very hot, only a few of these blinds were rolled right down: most of them were only about one-third lowered. The rolled two-thirds made a mighty swagging above the verandah, causing the thin man to reflect, as he often did at the sight of these harmless and accustomed domestic aids, that at need the weight of the rolled branches would make a formidable weapon to drop on an unsuspecting adversary’s head. But that, this being India, one probably would never manage it: the riggings could certainly be designed to drop the blinds whenever one fancied, but, alas, the fellows deputed to tend the ropes would undoubtedly manage to tangle them!
    On the verandah floor an Indian servant woman in a crumpled white cotton saree had nodded off beside a long swing in which two angelic-faced European girls were asleep amidst a tangle of silken cushions and trailing shawls and wrappers. One might have been ten years of age: her light brown curls were a little tumbled and the neat calico apron sheltering her little white muslin dress had a few paint stains upon it. The brush and watercolours were discarded on the verandah floor. The thin man tied his horse to a verandah post, removed the saddlebags, and glanced at the childish painting of pink and yellow flowers in a vase, and the vase itself nearby on a little cane table, and again smiled that very slight smile. The vase held two marigolds. The painting showed two yellow sunbursts and one pink smudge. The other sleeping child was younger, perhaps seven or eight years of age: a positive cherub with a great mass of tangled golden ringlets, and a crumpled white muslin dress adorned with knots of crushed blue ribbon. One grubby little hand clutched a pink flower.
    —No, dear children, you have it wrong: the date was 1815, remember! That’s right, Matt: the year of Waterloo. These were your Great-Aunt Tonie and your Great-Aunt Josie. Yes, Josie had glorious golden curls, so very like your cousin Margaret’s! Matt, dearest, this is not a story about Waterloo. The precise date? Dearest boy, it was a very long time ago… Let us say, well before the rains. That is how we dated things in India, and let us leave it at that! Do you wish to hear more, or shall we ring for tea? Very well, then.

The First Story of Ponsonby Sahib continued.
    The thin man mounted the verandah steps, his face expressionless, tiptoed past the sleepers, and went on down the verandah to where some muslin curtains hung limply at a set of open French doors.
    “Hullo, Johnny Jullerbees!” squeaked a high little voice. “Have you brought some?”
    “Yes,” he said, holding the curtains aside and looking into the dim room behind them. “Come out, come out, wherever you are.”
    At this a very small, skinny child emerged, panting, from under the large table which occupied the centre of the room—now, in the dimness, revealing itself to be a library. It was not altogether positive what sex or race this child was: it was clad in a ragged shirt over a minute version of a ragged dhotee, and its head was bound in a ragged white turban, but the thin man said unemotionally: “Hullo, Tiddy.”
    “Hullo, Major!” squeaked the child, beaming.
    “Where are Charlie and Romesh?” he asked mildly, opening one of the saddlebags.
    “They’ll be squashed in there,” said the child disapprovingly. “Romesh is in the palace, he’s on guard. Charlie couldn’t come today, his mother said he had to go to her chota khana.”
    “Poor him,” he said, bending to look under the heavy library table. “Romesh, the guard is relieved!” he said loudly.
    At this a small Indian boy, dressed like the child Tiddy, but wearing a wide belt from which depended a large wooden sword, crawled out from under the table, grinning eagerly.
    “You can have Charlie’s share,” said Tiddy generously to the donor as the oozing paper of syrupy spirals of jullerbees was produced.
    “Thanks,” replied the Major simply, squatting on the carpet, boots and all. The two children, apparently noticing nothing odd in this action, also squatted, and the jullerbees were attacked with the appropriate reverent silence. Apart from the appropriate gasps for air, sighs of appreciation, and so forth.

  —Jullerbees? It is very hard to describe something you have eaten for most of your life and never thought about, dear ones! Well—syrupy spirals. If only our dear Nandinee Ayah were still with us, she would cook some up for you this very day! Nothing like an English cake, Gil, no. Very sweet—indeed, very, very sweet! You children would be astounded at the amount of sugar we were allowed to eat as little ones! Sugarcane, too—and sugarcane juice, of all things the most indescribably delicious! Er—one chews the sugarcane, Matt, it is just like a piece of, well, raw cane or—or bamboo, dear boy. No, one does not swallow the cane itself, for it is far too fibrous: just the juice. Between us, Tessa, darling, one does have to spit it out, yes, but pray do not tell your Mamma we said so! And in India one also buys the juice fresh from a street vendor: it’s such fun to see him force the canes through his mangle!
    The jullerbees, Matt: yes, of course. They are spirals soaked in a heavy sugar syrup. Quite a plain dough, mixed to a paste—and what a sight to see it was, Nandinee Ayah vigorously mixing up the dough in a big copper bowl with a great armful of narrow bangles jangling and glittering! Odd, indeed, to English eyes, Antoinette, dearest, for she had nigh on four inches of them on each wrist! The sugar syrup, Tessa? Well, one then dribbles the dough through an implement with a little hole in it—Nandinee had a piece of coconut shell she kept expressly for the purpose—making long spirals which are dropped immediately into a great pot of hot oil—and woe betide any child who comes too near to Ayah’s pan of oil! Indeed, it would burn you, darling! But it has to be hot to cook the jullerbees, you see. And when they are cooked, out they come on a big flat brass scoop, and then into the great bowl of sugar syrup! And if the baba-log are impatient, they may eat them immediately, while they are still warm from the oil, but customarily one eats them cold, when they have had time to soak in the syrup for a little. –Just write “log”, Antoinette, dear. Why, the baba-log are the baby people! Surely that is self-evident? –Yes, Gil baba, Indian words are funny indeed, and you shall have a cakey to your tea! And our little Tessa, of course, of course!
    Very well, Antoinette, dearest, Tonie will write the receet out for you if you wish.

Jullerbees, Best-Beloved Sweetmeats of India.
Make a batter of one pound of flour and water. Make it just about as thick as you would for pancakes. To colour yellow, add one teaspoonful of powdered tumerick, if available. Cover the vessel tight & let stand for three days. Then stir in about one half of a cup of thick sour milk [yoghurt]. (Or if one does not wish to bother with the batter standing around for three days, they can be made up at once by adding two-thirds of a teaspoonful of Bicarbonate of soda & one-third of Cream of tartar to the mixture and beating it well. The milk must not be too sour in that case.) Pour a little of the batter into a vessel with a hole in the bottom & let the batter run through a little at a time into a pan of hot oil. While the batter is running out through the hole keep the hand moving in a circle to form spirals. Fry until crisp & light brown. In the meantime have a dish of syrup ready. Make this syrup from one pound of brown sugar & water. Keep it in a warm place and as the jullerbees fry place each one for a few minutes in the syrup. Remove & pile them on oiled paper until needed.

The First Story of Ponsonby Sahib continued.
    In the library the jullerbees were vanishing fast, as jullerbees always do, and the first session of finger-licking being under way, the Major ventured: “So, is it a palace, today?”
    “Yes: the Red Palace of Dehrapore,” said Tiddy with satisfaction.
    Romesh echoing this phrase in his own language, the Major considerately switched to that tongue, in order to ask: “What are you doing, attacking or defending it?”
    “Defending it, of course,” said Tiddy.
    “I’m the captain of the palace guard,” explained Romesh.
    The Major gave the sideways wobble of the head that in the great subcontinent is used to signify understanding and affirmation—Yes, children, like this! Odd, is it not?—and Tiddy added helpfully: “Charlie was going to attack it. He’ll have to do it tomorrow, now.”
    He moved his head again. “I see. And who are you today, Tiddy?”
    “I’m the rajah’s chief spy, of course.”
    An acute observer might have seen the Major blench, at this. And at the same instant a laughing voice said in English from the inner doorway: “Serves you right, Ponsonby!”
    At which Gilbert Ponsonby got up, grinning, acknowledging: “It certainly does. Loose lips lose lives, is about the first thing I teach my fellows. How are you, Henry?”
    “In the pink, thanks,” replied Mr Lucas. Eyes twinkling, he put his hands together Indian-fashion and bowed. “Namaste.”
    The Major looked at his own sticky hands, and laughed. “Namaste!”
    “Come and tell me all your news,” said Mr Lucas, coming to put a hand on his shoulder.
    “Have you been up in the mofussil?” demanded Tiddy.
    “No, I’ve just been round and about,” replied Ponsonby smoothly.
    “You can see him later, Tiddy,” said Mr Lucas reassuringly, leading him out.
    “Don’t forget!” cried Tiddy loudly as they vanished.
    “I shan’t!” cried Ponsonby.
    As they went along the passage the voice of Miss Tiddy, aged five years, might quite clearly have been heard informing Master Romesh: “He has been up in the mofussil: that was a fib. You can always tell when Johnny Jullerbees is telling fibs.”
    “My God, I hope not!” said Ponsonby with a laugh as they went into Mr Lucas’s study.
“Angèle, Calcutta, 1815”
Miniature, 1815, artist unknown. (Thought to be Tiddy Lucas as a child)
Courtesy of the Maunsleigh Collection

    —And that is how we remember Ponsonby sahib from those very early days. Tell more, Matt? But was it not clear? Indian words? Did we? Something like “nasty”, Tessa? Oh! Namaste! Great-Aunt Tiddy will show you how it is done! There: one bows, you see—it does look like one is praying, yes, Matt. “Namaste” is just a greeting, as in English you might say “Good-day.” Mussels? But there were no mussels in the story, dear, for in India it is not safe to eat shellfish, the weather is so very hot, it is as if no month had an R in it! Ponsonby sahib was up in the—? Oh! That is mofussil: it means up the country: India is very, very big—yes, much bigger than England, Gil baba: Antoinette will show you on the big globe in the schoolroom later. So you see, Johnny Jullerbees had been on a very long journey. And of course there were no trains back then. Certainly it was before Mr Stephenson’s Rocket, Matt, and you had best spend some time these holidays with your schoolbooks, for poor Miss Hart was supposed to have taught you about that quite some months back! Let us just say that Ponsonby sahib had been on a very long journey, perhaps on horseback, but quite possibly with a camel train.
“Our Kafilah on the Plains”
Photograph, circa 1890, courtesy of Miss Thomas

    Lots of camels, Gil, darling, laden with bags and bundles, all walking one behind the other, with a lurching motion which one has to admit is not a very pleasant sensation, at least to those over twelve years of age! And one can ride or walk beside them. Progress is not very fast, no, but then, life in India never seems urgent…
    Tea? Why of course, darlings, let us ring for tea! No, well, there is a great deal more to the story, Matt, and if you wish to hear more of Ponsonby sahib, and the sorts of things he customarily did when he was in the mofussil, perhaps we could have a little more after tea. Since it still seems to be raining: how dismal the English summers can be, to be sure…

The Second Story of Ponsonby Sahib
    It must have been some time in the year 1820 when Ponsonby sahib paid another of his unannounced visits to the Lucas mansion. Lights glowed softly in the house, the muslin curtains at the downstairs windows moved in the pleasant evening breeze and from inside the house the sound of a piano and a woman’s voice singing could be heard. Ponsonby and his captive had not approached the mansion in the usual way; now they came silently across the dark lawn, and slipped through the bushes.
    “See?” hissed his captive crossly. “I said no-one would miss me!”
    Grimly Ponsonby replied: “Chup!” That is, “Be silent!” and they went round the corner of the house and ducked under the swagged arch, Ponsonby gripping his captive’s small, skinny arm unpleasantly hard.
    “Is it a burra khana?” he muttered as they approached the side verandah.
    “Not really,” admitted the captive sourly: “just dinner. The memsahib said Tonie might come down for it and play the new piece, and then she could accompany Tess, since it was only to be Major and Mrs Hatton, Mr and Mrs Carruthers, and Dr Little. Martha Carruthers was not allowed to come: she had a tantrum.”
    “Why?”
    “Girls like her do. Tonie told her she would have her hair up, you see.”
    He moved his head affirmatively. “I see. And has she?”
    “I don’t know. Probably not, she’s only fifteen.”
    “Ah: rubbing salt in the wound,” he said unemotionally, mounting the verandah steps. Tonight the verandah was empty except for its usual scattering of furniture. He moved quickly down to the library, still gripping the captive grimly, and there rang the bell.
    A servant swiftly presented himself, evinced horror and dismay at the sight presented to him, and hurried off to get his master, ekdum—straight away.
    “This,” said Ponsonby grimly, as Mr Lucas came in, looking very mild, “turned up at my sadar this evening claiming to have information for me.”
    Mr Lucas shot one glance at the small, dirty, ragged half-caste boy gripped fiercely in Ponsonby’s grasp and shouted: “Tiddy! What the Devil have you been up to?”
    Tiddy scowled defiantly. “Spying for Ponsonby sahib. –Why not? Romesh’s brother does it, and he’s only fifteen, and I’m much smarter than him!”
    At this our poor Papa was driven to shout crossly that she knew why not: she was a girl!
    “I think you’d better hear it all, Henry,” said Ponsonby.
    “Er—yes. Well, she can get off to bed.”
    “No! I’ve got information!” cried Tiddy.
    “Then don’t shout,” replied Ponsonby sahib calmly. “She claims to have been hanging round Quantock’s house, with Romesh and—er—his brother.”
    “Yes, and they didn’t understand a word, see, because it was all in French!” said Tiddy on a triumphant note.
    “Tiddy, I have one word for you,” said our Papa with a sigh. “Waterloo.”
    “I know!” she retorted angrily. “That doesn’t mean the French all love us, or have the interest of the Company at heart.”
    “Er—look, have a cigarillo,” said Mr Lucas to his friend with a smothered sigh, “and we’ll get to the bottom of it. It may all be a fantasy, y’know.”
    Ponsonby accepted a cigar and they adjourned to the verandah, where the two men lit up and sat down after a cautious checking of the shadows. Tiddy came and squatted at their feet but was ordered peremptorily by her father to get up and sit on a chair like a Christian.

    No, no, dear children. Everyone squats in India, except for the English, it is completely usual for a rajah—a prince, that is—as well as for a beggar, but pray to do not ask us to demonstrate it, at our advanced ages! Well, they are not Christians, Matt, no, and why should they be? Er—no, do not tell your Papa that, dear boy. Doubtless whatever he told you must be correct, and we are just three silly old ladies. Several religions, dear boy, and perhaps we could discuss that at another time, if your Papa permits you. Now, where were we? Oh, yes:

The Second Story of Ponsonby Sahib continued
    “Go on, Tiddy,” said Ponsonby on a dry note, as Mr Lucas merely blew smoke.
    It emerged from the somewhat tangled narrative that Tiddy, on the pretext of helping the punkah-wallah—the man who works the big ceiling fan—had got onto Mr Quantock’s verandah and there overheard, not merely this evening but over the course of several evenings, the aforesaid Quantock plotting with an emissary of the Rajah of Dehrapore, a visiting merchant who went by the name of Bogaert and claimed to be Belgian, and a Mr Paterson who worked for John Company, to foment unrest in the Rajah’s territory, entice an English regiment thereto, and there finish them off. In, according to Tiddy, French.
The Rajah of Dehrapore in Procession, circa 1800”
(from a portfolio of mounted Indian miniatures, Maunsleigh Library)
From the estate of Jarvis Wynton, Fifth Earl of Sleyven. Courtesy of the Maunsleigh Collection
    “If this farrago be true,” said Mr Lucas slowly, “then one can see why a Froggy masquerading as a Belgian would be quite happy for it to happen, provided he was a Republican Froggy, I suppose; and the Rajah’s known to be doing all he can to keep us out of his territory. He’d like to give us a hint or two we’re not welcome there, provided it can appear that we marched in asking for it. But I’d like to know what advantage Quantock gets from it. Or Paterson,” he added, very neutrally indeed.
    “Possibly Paterson is merely being paid for his assistance,” said Ponsonby.
    “Yes, or possibly the whole thing’s a fairy story; she knows Paterson, and don’t like him.”
    “He’s a horrid man, but I’m not making it up!” said Tiddy angrily.
    “Mm. Well, did you get any hint of what Quantock’s in it for?” asked Ponsonby seriously. “He’s a rich man, you know: as well-to-do as your Papa, I dare say.”
    “It was something about the—um—restrictions of John Company. He said they had a stranglehold,”  said Tiddy on a dubious note.
    “Er—well, that smacks of verisimilitude, Henry,” he murmured.
    “Aye, but to betray an English regiment?”
    “It has been known,” said Ponsonby, very drily indeed.
    “It has, indeed,” agreed Henry John Lucas.
    “Aye… But the involvement of the French seems… Well, we have not had a whisper.”
    “They were talking French!” said Tiddy crossly. “Romesh and his brother couldn’t understand, and they went to sleep, but I listened!”
    “Her step-mamma has insisted the girls keep up their French, in memory of their mother,” Mr Lucas conceded.
    Ponsonby rubbed his chin. “Oui, je sais. Raconte-moi cette histoire en français,” he suggested to Tiddy. “Du moins, raconte ce qu’a dit ce Bogaert.”
    Obediently Tiddy repeated what she could recall of M. Bogaert’s conversation, but this did not get them any further. Very clearly there had been a considerable amount which had passed right over her head. Sharp though that head was.
    “Did he mention—he or anyone, Tiddy,” said Ponsonby slowly at last, “anything like St Petersburg, or Moscow, or the interests of the Tsar, or the Northwest Frontier?”
    “No!” she said in amaze. “The frontier’s hundreds and hundreds of miles from the Rajah’s territory, Major!”
    Ponsonby smiled a little. “Mm. Er… Anything about Holland or the Dutch, Tiddy?”
    “No,” she said definitely.
    “Tiddy, think. Anything about the Dutch East Indies?” urged her father.
    “No!” she said crossly. “I am not a simpleton!”
    “No, you’re not that. Er—the Portuguese?” Ponsonby raised his eyebrows at Mr Lucas.
    “Nominally our allies,” murmured the merchant.
    “Mm. Well, there’s more than one power that would like to see us struggling to keep our foothold here, rather than broadening our interests in the East.”
    “Quite.” Mr Lucas pitched the stub of his cigar into a potted plant, and got up. “If this is true, a grateful country may give you a medal,” he said to his youngest daughter in an unpleasant voice. “But I don’t advise you to count on it. If it proves to be a lie, I’ll give you a dashed good beating meself. In the meantime, you can come upstairs and explain yourself to Ayah, and I think I can promise you that she’ll give you a dashed good beating. Say goodnight to Major Ponsonby.” He seized her hand and pulled her to her feet.
    “Goodnight, Ponsonby sahib,” said Tiddy in a small voice.
    He stood up slowly. “Tiddy, this was a very silly thing to do. Running around the town dressed as a boy is extremely dangerous, as I think you know, and skulking around Quantock’s house, if the man is involved in anything shady, could get you killed. I want your promise you won’t try this sort of trick again.”
    “Well?” said Mr Lucas, as his daughter had not uttered.
    “No!” she shouted. “It’s not fair! Boys can do anything! And it is all true! And I am not a liar!” Forthwith bursting into a storm of tears.
    “She is quite a truthful child,” said Mr Lucas, ignoring the tears, “as much as one brought up by a pack of Indian servants can ever be said to be that. Has a sense of fair play, too.”
    “Yes.” Ponsonby eyed him cautiously. “I’m dashed sorry, Henry. Should never have encouraged her by telling her those spy stories.”
    “No, well, who’d have thought she’d be so cursed silly?”
    “I’m not silly!” shouted Tiddy through the tears.
    “Not half,” replied Mr Lucas stolidly, hauling her off.
    Ponsonby lit a fresh cigarillo and gazed up at a velvety Indian sky. Eventually he blew out a long stream of smoke. “Hmm,” he said thoughtfully. When Mr Lucas reappeared on the side verandah of Ma Maison there was no sign of him. The merchant nodded to himself, and went slowly back indoors to his little dinner party.

    You wish to know if her nurse beat her, children? Let us just say that Tiddy baba received a good scolding. Yes, Matt: it was a very dangerous thing to do, but perhaps it does prove that girls may be as adventurous as boys. Though on mature reflection some of us had to concede that they can be as foolhardy! Indeed, Tessa, your Great-Aunt Tiddy was a very naughty girl to dress up as a boy. But the bad men did not catch her, and so it turned out happily in the end! Not breeches, no, darling, but a dhotee. A white cloth wrapped about the hips and legs, almost as we might wrap an infant, but in India even very old men wear the dhotee, usually with a long, loose white shirt. The poorer classes cannot afford coats, Matt, though the better-off wear them when the weather is not too hot, or for formal occasions. No, Tessa, dear, rajahs wear pretty silken breeches. As for how it all turned out, Matt, that was not revealed for some two years after that. Things do not move swiftly in India. But as in England it seems it is already time for your old aunts to rest before dinner, we shall leave it there for the nonce. No, Gil baba, tomorrow is another day!


(Part 2 to come...)
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Saturday, 18 June 2011

THE GREAT TAMASHA COOKBOOK & FAMILY HISTORY


THE GREAT TAMASHA COOKBOOK AND FAMILY HISTORY

A Story of the British Raj


*****
1
Introduction by Katy Widdop



Hulwa of Carrots, or Carrot Cheese.
A little nibble to welcome you.
Boil a pound of carrots until very tender. Then mash them perfectly smooth. Next, mix with a pound of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, & the juice of a large lemon. Also add a few elaychee [cardamom] seeds. Cook over a slow fire until the mixture hardens into a paste. Add a little more butter just before removing from the fire. Press into shallow pans and cut in neat squares or diamonds like fudge. To be eaten cold as a sweetmeat. In India, guests are welcomed with trays of little nibbles, savoury or sweet.


    The Tamasha project started when Aunty Jen remembered that old tin trunk that Uncle Don had shoved in the garage. Well, more or less. By then, the interests of all us Widdop girls were pretty well developed, and our characters pretty well determined—at least, Cassie’s and Julie’s were, but I’ve never felt as if mine was. The word flou springs to mind, actually. Would caractère—as opposed to personnage—be masculine or feminine in French? I’ve forgotten. But anyway, that’s what I’ve always felt mine is. And don’t they say that character determines your choices in life? That’s the great They with a capital T, by the way. Cassie and Julie were both divorced by that time, but I’ve never managed to catch a man. Not that that’s said any more, these days, as opposed to, to name only one, in Great-Aunty Sue’s day. Or is it? Maybe it is, or a version in the modern vernacular, in the circles that think it’s crucial to a woman’s development (into what, exactly?). Probably development’s the wrong word, it doesn’t sound very New Age or Generation X. Sorry: my point is, when the tin trunk was disinterred, Cassie was already keen on cookery and had busted up with the unlamented Ken Babbage (rhymes with cabbage, who’d want to be called that in any case?) and had decided that life begins at fifty-five and she was going to finish that cookbook she’d started to write way back when, plus and learn real Indonesian cooking as opposed to what you get in the horrid Adelaide nosh shops, plus and learn real Italian cooking as opposed to ditto; and Julie had always been keen on history and had busted up with the unlamented Rod Darling (Darling by name and not by nature, and reading between the lines the “Rod” wasn’t too appropriate, either) and had decided that a middle-aged woman could do anything (and most things better than a bloke), so she was going to get a job at the uni that she’d given the flick to back when she thought that her and Rod were going to last forever as they attained a two-storey mansion in a highly desirable Eastern suburb of Adelaide followed by the complete tour of Europe, and meantime she would knuckle down to it and write that family history that she’d begun back when Darren had started school and just before the twins, Jerry and Petey, attained the terrible twos.
    Maybe I should just mention that Darren is now forty and living in London with a swish job as a cost accountant, whatever that is, and hardly ever emails his old mum, and Jerry and Pete (he made the family drop the –y when he was about eleven) are both thirty-seven and Jerry’s wife, Madeleine, who considers that our side of the family was holding him back for years, has long since dragged him off to Sydney where in spite of all that dragging he’s got a very successful career in corporate re-engineering, whatever that is, not to mention the huge modern two-storey house with everything that opens and shuts, and Julie only gets elaborate, useless and doubtless Madeleine-chosen prezzies from him on birthdays and Christmases. Or possibly Madeleine-ordained: I can just see her hiring a professional shopper, if they have those yet in Sydney. Yeah, they must have, anything glitzy, Hollywoodish and tasteless that Beverly Hills has, Sydney absolutely has to have—and wasn’t that what Jennifer Aniston did in that boring Nineties TV thing that went on and on and on, the cardies and twinsets getting narrower and narrower and the teensy-weensy earrings and tiny dangly things at the neck getting minuter and minuter? Um, no, maybe I’ve got that wrong, but I’ve seen it on some mindless Nineties thing on the box. A professional shopper. They do your shopping for you. Yep, Madeleine’d be up for that.
    Pete has remained relatively normal, in that he’s still living in Adelaide, making a good living as an accountant, and still married to the same woman he married when he was twenty-four, Glenys, though according to her they’re going through a rocky patch. And their kids, Belle and Corinne (thirteen and eleven) are relatively normal apart from Belle’s insistence on being called Belle when her name is actually Arabella. Out of a book, so Glenys must be able to read, though there are no books in their horrid modern two-storey cream-rendered house except for the kids’ schoolbooks. On second thoughts maybe it was one of those books of names. No? You must have heard of them: books of names! You buy them when you’re expecting a baby. Or maybe that’s all done on the Internet these days, come to  think of it.   Cassie’s kids, Juliette and Charles, are also relatively normal. Juliette is thirty and runs a Wellness Centre (gym for ladies) and is married to one, Cas, thirty-two, who does sports announcing and public appearances in the wake of a fairly successful football career and is seriously considering going into the car-sales business with a mate who is also retired from the football biz. No kids, Juliette plans to start a family when she’s thirty-three. Charles is twenty-five and is living at home off his old mum while he finishes his Ph.D. I did try to point out that our generation supported ourselves through our degrees, or, if male, at least married someone of the same generation who slaved to put us through them, that or gave the bloody things away because we had to earn a crust, but Cassie merely retorted that my other theme song is “What do people have kids for, if they don’t want to give them the dough at the stage in their lives when they actually need it, instead of leaving it to them in their wills when they’re ninety and the kids are seventy?” She was right, too, drat her. See? Flou. Or molle, if you like. Anyway, she can afford to support Charles, she is fairly well off, because Ken Babbage is a rich lawyer, belongs to the flaming Adelaide Club and all that shit, and she did quite well out of the divorce. Astonishing? Well, not all that, when you consider that what the nit did, he told her he was off to a conference and then accidentally emailed the holiday snaps of him and the twenty-four-year-old bimbo in the Cook Islands to everyone in his email address book, not just the ruddy male mate they were meant for.
    The old tin trunk—yes. I’m getting there. They decided democratically that I had to write the intro because I’m used to writing reports, hah, hah. (And also possibly because I'm the eldest, though neither of them would admit to that, or any of its implications.) Well, yes, at one stage I wrote quite a few reports, before my extremely boring job in a library was canned because the Powers that Be decided that we were vastly over-staffed and it could all be done by computers. As they’d cunningly put us all on short-term contracts there was no massive redundancy payout. After that I didn’t write any reports, I just signed on with Centrelink, who very kindly told me that they didn’t find people jobs, which I always thought was the point of them. But no, they merely dole out the dole and make you sit through immensely boring two-hour interviews while they blah on about absolutely nothing, eventually revealing that when you’re whatever age—I forget, but I qualified, I was well over fifty—you can volunteer for the dole (not what their website calls it, so don’t attempt to look it up there), but not revealing, though the phrase “until you reach superannuation age” was trotted out several times, that for women of my generation the age of superannuation wasn’t sixty-five at all, like I always thought, that was only for men, but for women—Forget it. What happened was I got this terrible shock about a month off my sixty-third birthday when Centrelink sent me this absolutely draconian letter ordering me to cease volunteering for the dole and go onto the old age pension. So I ceased. The cycling organisation I was volunteering for was quite upset because they’d been making me do all their Internet research for them, regardless of the fact that my job had never required me to do any research, after they’d seen the word “librarian” on the résumé they’d made me bring along to the two-hour interview. On topics about which I knew absolutely nothing, such as grants available from state or federal governments, or tourist facilities in the Grampians—not the Scottish ones, no. Fortunately their browser apparently knew to direct me to the Australian ones. –No, of course I can’t ride a bike, I’ve got absolutely no sense of balance. They reckoned that didn’t matter for an office job.
    The trunk was of course disinterred because Aunty Jen had the inspiration that it was going to help Julie with her family history research. As Julie’s expressed opinion of “Aunty” Jen (not a relative at all, she’s our uncle’s wife) is that the woman’s got a brain like hen this didn’t go down too well. However, the contents of the tin trunk made up for it. More than made up for it. Fortunately Aunty Jen isn’t the sort of woman to say “I told you so”.
    God knows how the tin trunk survived. Because Uncle Don’s a hoarder? Well, yes, most blokes are, apart from the most relentlessly anal—never get mixed up with one of those, by the way. On the other hand, it wasn’t in the sacred male shed (yep, of course he’s got one of those!), it was in the garage to which Aunty Jen is sometimes allowed to penetrate. To park the car—right. And haul the shopping out of the boot—right again. The trunk itself is quite a historical item and I dare say could get onto that Collectors programme on the ABC all by itself, it’s so spattered with torn, browned, scarce-legible bits of labels. Inside it there was a great pile of papers and assorted junk, including an elephant’s foot (it’s quite a large trunk) that reduced both Cassie and Julie to the shuddering horrors. This is the same Cassie who rips into duck carcases with a bloody great boning knife à la Julia Child, mind you, and serves up kangaroo meat at the drop of a hat, plus and the same Julie who warmly recommends kangaroo meat as being much leaner and better for you than beef. Which she also eats. Oh, well.
    It was the big bundle of books and papers parcelled up together with lots of string and a big sheet of paper on top with a handwritten note “The Tamasha Cookery Book” that was the most exciting find, however. Though Julie was disappointed at first. Until we discovered that large parts of it weren’t recipes at all. The bundle also included an actual manuscript, someone had already had a go at writing a family history—Julie practically exploded with excitement over that one. Plus lots and lots of letters and a couple of journals, as they seem to have called themselves in those days, we’d call them diaries, like Bridget Jones, all from the 19th century. In one case some enterprising hand had used one of the journals as a scrapbook to stick recipes into—you know, sticking them over the writing. Julie was very upset about that, in fact hysterical, until we discovered that with only the flick of a thumbnail the things’d flake off. Cassie then had hysterics because she was getting them out of order but Julie shouted: “Recipes don’t have PROVENANCE!” and they had a big fight, one of the many.
    Once Julie had decided that there was real historical evidence here I thought we ought to do it properly: you know, like an archaeological dig (well, I’ve seen them on TV, and my old friend Una, that I haven’t seen since her kids were about the same age as Pete and Glenys’s two are now, did archaeology at uni and got all keen and went on digs in the Outback until she realised that the prof didn’t notice grubby students and was very happily married to a charming woman much prettier than she was). Not actual bits of string, it’s hard to apply a string grid to a tightly tied-up bundle of papers, but recording the layers and the exact position of stuff within them. There were an awful lot of layers so this was unanimously vetoed by the both of them.  Then Julie unilaterally decided on a modified version of the archaeological approach—not calling it that or conceding that it was my idea in the first place, naturally. Everything had to be sorted into correct piles and dated. Hah, hah. Lots of it didn't have any dates on it, they didn’t have helpful email programs that automatically dated the crap you wrote to your sisters back in the 19th century. So Julie decided she was gonna have to rely on internal evidence.
    Just at first Julie said the stuff wasn't Widdop family history at all but pretty soon she realized it was: some of the letters were signed by a Widdop. Horrible handwriting, but the scrawl at the end was just decipherable. After a bit it dawned that at some stage some of the stuff had been sorted, not chronologically but by the writer, so this was a bit of help, in that she didn’t have to sort out ten million pieces of paper by the handwriting alone. Only five million—you got it. Eventually she decided that the only way to track the stuff by both writer and date was to use a database and as I was the one who’d been using databases in my work I was appointed. And—loud screech at Cassie—no-one was to write ANYTHING on anything! This had me and Cassie both stumped for a bit but the brilliant Julie produced the words: “Plastic sleeves.” Oh, yeah. Right. Mm. Whose money would be spent on those? Julie unilaterally decided that Cassie’s could and she cheerfully agreed, not having realised that the bloody woman meant archive-quality, acid-free plastic sleeves, not just ordinary—Forget it. In any case it was Ken Babbage’s dough, wasn't it? She let us stick ordinary labels on the fronts of the plastic sleeves, I suppose that was a plus. Yep, the whole sorting thing was a nightmare. Well, I just designed the database, entered what Julie told me to, and kept my head down as much a possible, but—yeah. A nightmare.
    The two of them kept finding really exciting things and reading them out to me, that was interesting, though. Well, usually. More or less. If you’re deeply into cookery or family history. But after a while—the whole process took several years—I began to get really interested in the actual people. Not as figures in a family history or cooks—or recipe collectors, they were the sort of people who had cooks—but as people. So did Julie—hah, hah! She stopped referring to them by their alpha-numerical positions in the bloody family tree she’d drawn up all over my sitting-room wall and started using their names!

    Don’t ask why my flat was unanimously voted by the both of them to be the ideal place for the “project”. Possibly because it’s a dump that I never do anything to? While Cassie’s house of course is beautifully decorated and cared for—she’s got a Mrs ’Arris—plus and has Charles in it, plus and is regularly infested by a lot of other divorced, middle-aged would-be gourmet chefs or even married gourmet chefs that don’t want to experiment muckily all over their own kitchens—and Julie’s place is merely pristine, fullstop. While it wouldn’t matter if the walls of my flat were covered with charts and family trees and lined with filing cabinets (to take the plastic sleeves—you got it). And I did have a scanner-printer, which somehow seemed to clinch it for the both of them. Because the originals weren’t gonna be handled, see? And Julie would (loftily) pay for the paper. No! Not the paper for the scanned recipes, if Cassie wanted to bother to scan them: who was gonna want to read a cookbook of semi-British, semi-Indian recipes from the flaming British Raj, for heaven’s sake? The things were neither one thing nor the oth—They had another screaming row.
    The rows went on for ages and ages and got worse and worse. Julie maintained that there were far too many cookbooks on the market as it was and no-one would want to publish a book of semi-British, semi-Indian recipes from the flaming British Raj. Cassie got really riled up and pointed out that there were far too many family histories on the market as well and they were all potty in any case, stupid little self-published things with rusty staples in them that only family-history nutters ever wanted and in most cases only the immediate family concerned and often not even them. Ruddy Charles put his foot in it good and proper by agreeing that he certainly wouldn’t want to read our family history, and actually he wasn’t a Widdop. Julie then had a go at the Babbage side in toto, that didn't help. In any case Julie’s magnum opus was far too bulky to turn into a self-published folded A4 thing held together by staples, rusty or not. Finally—and I honestly can't tell you how it happened—we decided that the best thing would be to combine the two, and use more of a novel format, because otherwise there’d be a lot of gaps that Julie didn’t have hard evidence for. The Widdop Family History and Cookbook, see? And never mind if nobody wanted to publish it, Julie would publish it on the Internet! Or at least in a blog.


    By this time Bob and Terri Darling, Rod Darling’s brother and sister-in-law, who’ve always been friends with Julie, and in fact have seen more of her since the divorce than they have of him—understandable, considering the stuck-up bitch he’s now married to—had got really interested in the project and kept coming over to read new bits Julie had written and sample the recipes Cassie was trying out in my kitchen. Fortunately it’s like most modern Aussie flats, the kitchen area’s quite large and it’s got a huge family-size oven, though the actual lounge-room’s too small to swing a cat in and there’s barely room for a two-person sofa with my desk in it, though actually I don’t own a sofa, which is why there was room for the filing cabinets. Well, the kitchen isn’t large with the three of us plus the Darlings crammed into it to eat, plus quite often Charles as well, but fortunately the bedroom is quite roomy and I've got a double bed and there’s room for a couple of chairs as well, so we usually just eat in there. Well, heck, when you look back, we've known Bob and Terri most of our lives, and in short, who cares? We were chewing over titles, sort of during and after Cassie’s fabulous pukkorahs and miraculous rogan josh, and it was Terri who said it was all centred on Tamasha, really, wasn’t it, and it wasn’t just the Widdops, by any means, there was the Lucas family and the Ponsonby family as well, and really it might be better to have Lucas in the title, it did sort of all start with them, only we tried it out and none of us thought it sounded right, and then Bob said “Well, Tamasha instead?”
    Charles got carried away—he’d brought a bottle of dry white, one of those Aussie ones that are horribly over-oaked, though everyone was kind enough not to say so, and as we’d let hm drink most of it, it had gone to his head—and bounced up and started writing on the wall, trying out the look of various titles. His mother screamed at him but I didn't mind: well, it’s one of those retirement units where you pay a lump sum (all I had—right) and then have no equity in the dump whatsoever but it is nominally yours until you croak, and when you do the so-called charity that manages it, at the same time somehow affording to employ a huge admin staff and publish a huge, far too frequent shiny mag about their own admin concerns, renovates it from top to toe regardless of whether it needs it or not. And finally—we had to open the bottle of red that Bob was holding in reserve—finally we had it: The Great Tamasha Cookbook and Family History.
    Tamasha? I don’t want to pre-empt Julie. Let’s just say it was a house in Kent, it’s an Indian word. And how did its family history end up in Uncle Don’s shed in Adelaide, Australia, in the twenty-first century? Apart from the hoarder thing, yes. Well, we did finally manage to find that out—naturally the letter was right at the bottom of the trunk. It was so yellowed and crumpled that Julie assumed it was only another loose recipe and almost didn’t look at it. It turned out to be from our Granddad’s sister Mary—she’d’ve been our great-aunt, yes, but we never met her (Great-Aunty Sue’s on the other side). Our Granddad, Stan Widdop, came out to Australia from England in the 1920s. He worked as a jackeroo on an Outback station for quite a while and our Grandma, who was an Adelaide girl, went with him, working as a cook. But by the 1930s the family had settled in Adelaide and he was a civil servant. They were lucky, he was employed all through the Depression. Well, he was quite bright but when you consider what proportion of the country was out of work! He stayed with the Department for the rest of his working life and in fact rose to be its head. We couldn’t make out what the exact date of the letter was, it was torn, but it was nineteen-thirty-something. This is what it said:
                                                                                              
TheVicarage,
Little Shrempton,
[illegible]...... 193...


Dear Stanley,
    It was lovely to get your last and to hear about the family’s doings. Give dear June my love, won’t you?
    I hardly know how to tell you this, old boy. Tamasha is gone! It burnt down in the night! You knew that it was sold, of course—so sad, to see the last of the old family go. That horrid industrialist man bought it, of course, but he was never there. Julian did say—and it was most uncharitable of him!—that perhaps he’d be ruined by the horrible Depression, but no, he seems to have positively thrived. Or is it thriven? Black market profiteering, I dare say. Then we heard that he was having it done up. I ask you! A beautiful old house like that? The last thing it needed! But at least it gave some local men employment. But that was the thing, you see: they said it was all that paint and varnish and so forth. It caught fire in the night and though they had engines come from as far as Folkestone, it was impossible to save it. Damaged beyond repair, they say. Most of the roof has fallen in.
    One of the firemen, a local man, one of the Carter boys, you might remember them, came over to see Julian in the morning with an old tin trunk that they’d salvaged. It must have been in an attic and fallen right into the drawing-room. He said it seemed to have family papers in it and so we might like to keep it. He was sure the owner wouldn't be interested and there was nothing of value in it. Julian was doubtful about it (after all, the man bought the house and contents) so he wrote to him. Would you believe, a lawyer turned up to inspect the thing! Honestly! But he said it was all worthless and frankly not worth his time, but as Mr B. was paying for it, so be it. I gave him a cup of tea with some of our little “narial” cakes. He said they were most unusual and asked for the recipe for his wife! He said of course we must keep the papers if we wanted them, and he’d tell Mr B. that. So Julian thought we had better send the papers to you, dear Stanley, as you and Dicky are the last of the Widdops. You know what Dicky is: he only laughed and said you were the elder brother, it was up to you. There are some souvenirs as well. Do you remember the elephant’s foot that stood in the hall at Tamasha when we were tots? I’m sure it must be the same one! And a brass knife. I was doubtful about it but the lawyer was sure it isn’t worth anything. So we’ll parcel it up and send it out to you. I dare say your Johnny may be interested in the knife!
    Goodness knows what will happen to the Tamasha estate now. I suppose the owner will try to sell it but Julian says it's unlikely he’ll find a buyer with the economy the way it is.
    News from Europe is still grim, I’m afraid, with that dreadful Hitler man rampaging up and down. Still, at home there’s the excitement of the Coronation to look forward to! But now there’s a rumour, which personally I cannot believe, that the Prince of Wales wants to marry that Mrs Simpson woman, but the Prime Minister and the Archbishop of Canterbury say if he really wants to he’ll have to abdicate! It won’t happen, of course. He’s been brought up to do his duty to his country. Julian will only say that although the Church can’t approve of divorced persons marrying, we must be charitable and not condemn a person that we don't know, but really! How many husbands has the woman had? I suppose it went to her head and she started imagining herself as Queen of England.
    Well, that’s all for now. Take care of yourself, Stanley, dear. Julian sends his kindest regards. Love to yourself, June and the children.
                                                Your loving sister,
                                                            Mary
    Uncle Don can't remember exactly how he ended up with the trunk. Just as well he did, because if Granddad had given it to Dad, who is the older brother and probably by rights should have got it, Mum would have biffed it out long since. We did ask Dad if he remembers it at all, or remembers Granddad getting it and the letter from our Great-Aunty Mary, but he doesn’t. All he said was “Eh? What old tin trunk? Never heard of it.” And when  we said that Julie wanted to write the family history and the stuff in the trunk looked really exciting he said: “Eh? Well, do it if you wannoo, love”, without any interest whatsoever. Him all over. Admittedly he’s in his eighties, but he hasn’t got Alzheimer’s, so there’s no excuse for him, really. Well, he’s never been interested in anything all his life, why would he start now? Well, except lawn bowls. And cricket. Cricket played by other people—right. Whereas good old Uncle Don got really excited and came round and gave us a hand with the initial sorting. And would’ve let us use his garage for the project only Aunty Jen pointed out that that’d leave no room for his precious car. And had a giggling fit, bless her. And then gave us a marvellous afternoon tea with scones and homemade raspberry jam, don’t knock it till you've tried it, and let Cassie foist the Tamasha papers’ Indian recipe for a carrot fudge on her. Though it was plain as the nose on your face that she didn’t believe carrots could be turned into fudge, if she did say that  carrot cake is nice.
    Anyway, as I say we ended up with Cassie doing all the recipe bits, Julie doing the historical research and stringing stuff together and generally getting it right, and me sort of helping out with the more, um, story bits. Well, Julie wrote out what should be in them but they were pretty inhuman, you know? So I started sort of humanising them and Cassie reckoned that was much better and Julie had better let me. So in the end she did. But all the hard works is theirs. We have tried to make it flow, and it was a great help having that early effort at a family history to base all the first part on. Written about the turn of the 19th century, Julie thinks, and based on someone’s notes from the mid 1860s. Anyway, here it all is. As true to what happened as we could make it.